the yefiri issue
Thucydides, the Pindos pioneer
At an altitude of 1100m, Kapesovo (one of the 48 Zagorohoria villages) has bracingly pure air and incredible vistas of mountain ridges and limestone pinnacles.
Remote and wild, this is ‘the other Greece’ that most tourists never find. Tucked away in the cobbled lanes is a 200-year-old house converted into a cosy, six-room inn. It’s a labour of love created by Thucydides, who together with his wife and daughters, also run a café-cum-curiosity shop where everything from the quince preserve to the beeswax candles is home-grown and hand-made.
Nobody knows the Pindos mountains like Thucydides. A passionate conservationist, he is a walking encyclopaedia of the region’s cultural and natural heritage. On a recent trip to Zagorohoria, we spent four days following in Thucydides’ footsteps: picking fruit in his organic orchards, foraging for wild herbs and greens which we baked in a traditional pie, hunting for edible mushrooms in mossy dells, and hiking deep into forests of maple, oak and beech, along hidden trails that Thucydides had opened up himself.
Picking wildflowers in alpine meadows, leaping over icy rivers, and watching eagles glide across jagged ravines, this immersion into nature unbound made us as giddy as Thucydides’ raki, the local eau-de-vie.